Stuart McAleese
Stuart is a true all-rounder in that he is an accomplished rock climber and ice-climber. He has combined these skills to make impressive first ascents of big walls and alpine faces in the mountains of Alaska and Patagonia. In 2003 he was nominated for the prestigious Piolet d’Or Award.
Stuart featured as one of the rising stars of British alpinism in Climb magazine’s first issue in May 2005. A particularly memorable expedition for Stu was attempting to follow in the footsteps of Boardman and Tasker on Changabang’s remote West Wall.
For the last 16 years he has spent every winter climbing in Scotland and still enjoys the suffering. Since starting climbing at the age of 17 in the Lake District, Stuart’s greatest ambition was to become an International Mountain Guide. He realised this dream in 2008, gaining his ‘badge’ after three years of rigorous training and assessment.
Stuart currently works as an instructor and guide at the National Mountain Centre, Plas y Brenin, dividing his time between Scotland, North Wales and the Alps. It is the hard unclimbed lines on alpine faces around the world that continue to inspire and fuel his drive for adventure. In 2010 he’ll be returning to Alaska and the Paine area of Patagonia.
Stuart is personally sponsored by Mountain Equipment
Notable Climbs:
- Omega, Petites Jorasses, First free ascent, First British ascent (now an ultra modern hard classic)
- Eiger North Face 1938 route Winter, Aged 26.
- Matterhorn North Face (October last year, climbed the Shroud on the Grand Jorasses the same week)
- Cima Grande Brandler Hasse
- Piz Badile North Face
- Petit Dru West Face, American Direct (to the summit and over the back)
- Grandes Jorasses, the Shroud
- Beyond Good and Evil
- Traverse of the Chamonix Aiguille
- Wall of Prey, Ireland Amazing
- Lord of the Flies
- Souls
- Wreath of Deadly Nightshade UK E7
- Flower of Evil UK E7
- Bad Bad Boy F7c
- Central Grooves
- Sioux Wall VIII 8
- El Mancho VII 7 2nd Ascent
- Babylon VII 8 3rd Ascent
- War and Peace
- Point Five! Best route ever!
Expeditions:
- ‘Off the Wall Madness’ VI E4 A2 800m First Ascent, Mt Citadel, Kitchatna Spires, Alaska 2002 (big wall climbing)
- ‘Supa Dupa Coulior’ VI ED4 Scottish VI 1200m First Ascent, Kichatna Spires, Alaska 2003 Nominated for the Piolet d’ Or for this ascent.
- Fitzroy E Face, Patagonia Attempt 2003 (Failed efforts due to awful weather).
- ‘Perfect Storm’ VI E4 A2+, 1000m First British ascent via this new route, Mt Nevermore, Kichatna Spires,Alaska 2004 Big wall climbing (climbed over 10 days, 7 of which was on the wall. Stormy weather and a good degree of suffering inspired it’s name).
- Alaska 2005 Attempt of New route Middle Triple Peak, Kichatna Spires, Alaska
- Changabang 2005 Attempt of New route on West Wall (resulting with ascent of the Boardman Tasker route to 6300m).
- ‘The good, the bad and the ugly’ A3+ E3 900m First ascent, South Tower of Paine, Patagonia 2007 (15 days climbing in some of the worst weather either of us had experienced). Climbing partner Mike ‘Twid’ Turner.
- Peru 2007, Guiding peaks 5900m+ with an attempt of Alpamayo.
